With only a few days at my disposal, I'd decided to follow the trail of Serbia's national saint, St Sava (Stefan Nemanja's son), and visit five monasteries associated with his family and that early medieval state. He was Nemanja's youngest son, who eventually became a monk and founded the Serbian Orthodox Church and became its first archbishop – so now he's our national saint."Sava was buried in Mileseva Monastery in 1236, although in 1594, as a reprisal for a Serbian uprising, the Ottomans dug up Sava's remains and took them to the Vracar Plateau on the edge of Belgrade.My guide was the charming and knowledgeable Srdjan Ristic. "They burnt them in full view of the inhabitants of the city," said Srdjan.This is your best opportunity to chat with people from Serbia.
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Then, with the refectory converted back into a dining room again, I had breakfast with Sister Anna before taking a look at the 13th-century church and its frescos.
Most of the figures were damaged but the colours were striking, especially the rich blues.
"Today, on exactly the same spot, we're building the Cathedral of St Sava, which is larger than Hagia Sophia in Istanbul."Mileseva Monastery lies on the edge of the River Milesevka, around 250km from Belgrade.
There isn't much around aside from the monastery, a few village houses spread over the low hills and one café where the lights had fused.
There was a fairly intact Annunciation and a delightful Virgin Mary and Child where Mary, sitting in what looked like a bright red bucket chair, tenderly rested her head against the baby Jesus in a rather odd crib.
I had been given three maps when I'd arrived in Belgrade a week earlier.
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